And so that water was feedingResnick pistachios and almonds and keeping them alive in the worst of the drought. In case the growers are fearing the antitrust cops from the Department of Justice, they neednt. Groundwater agencies up and down the San Joaquin Valley had to file plans with the Department of Water Resources earlier this year showing . Inside, a trainer watches over a line of treadmills, elliptical machines, and stationary bikes. They slap back with the cold vibration of water. Bernards eyes are fixed straight ahead. Along with paying a quarter-million for recharging the aquifer, with the terms including a restriction on pumping of up to 36,000 acre-feet annually, or 130,000 acre-feet within a five-year consecutive period and a separate restriction that the district, nor its members, move water outside of Tulare and Kings counties. Your donation today powers the independent journalism that you rely on. He wonders what agriculture will look like in western Kern in ten years. One cousin arrived only last week. Thats $83 a tree. The pizza dough is cauliflower, too. Like other small farmers, my water stays on my ground. Highway 46 shoots past Resnick almonds and takes you straight into town, population 1,938. Why not send him an email? the secretary suggested. Hes smiling but speaks only Spanish. Thats how he came upon the San Joaquin. His second son is a psychiatrist. All Rights Reserved. The price for pistachios has climbed from $4.50 a pound to an unbelievable $5.25 a pound. Father Stephen excelled in land deals, trading the toil of farming for successful real estate offices and expense accounts. It becomes scorn because they cant allow it to become pity or self-hatred. Its gone, I say. Rubbish, said Vidovich, in a Los Altos office decorated with maps of his land holdings. You and I look at this meal, he says. His real estate empire became big enough to bring aboard each of his four children. The next year, it delivers 300,000 acre-feet. Im in a dire situation.. Name. Most everything that can be touched in this corner of California belongs to Wonderful. About five years ago, Lynda started our community development organization in Lost Hills, and the journey has been an amazing one. On the whiteboard in front of the weights, the big boys list their totals. The Federal Trade Commission found Wonderful guilty of false advertising and ordered the Resnicks to stop claiming that POM cured heart disease and erectile dysfunction. But Vidovich has a history of selling and shipping water outside the valley, so some locals dont trust him. He bought his first San Joaquin Valley parcel in 1994 when he invested in a foreclosed property in Kings County. Annual sales at the Mint jumped to nearly $1 billion. The room smells of Vicks VapoRub. It was linear, logical, fluid, and quite nearly destined. For now, theyre selling to farmers like Resnick who can pay the price. A day later, I get a call from Mr. Resnick. Her husband, Manuel, will awaken in 30 minutes to prepare for his night shift. Along a fan of the Kings River, a raisin farmer in Selma shows me his well thats coughing up sand. On Sleepy Farm Road outside Paso Robles, the Resnicks were looking to add 380 acres of wine grapes and build a small reservoir with groundwater. It takes my visiting the irrigation district office during a public meeting for him to cough up more details. Not that long ago, we used to time our sinus infections by the immense cloud of defoliants sprayed on the cotton fields at the end of Indian summer. Ah, he says, so youre the one whos been snooping around. She grabs him by the wrist, and they make a beeline for the convention hall door. Every river busting out of the Sierra was bent sideways, if not backward, by a bulwark of ditches, levees, canals, and dams. Rain for Rent, the pipes say. The wide-open middle of California did its lullaby on me again. In a profile of Vidovich written by Lois Henry then of The Bakersfield Californian now writing exclusively for her own service, SJVWater the farmer-lawyer-real estate magnate made no bones about where local misgivings began. Who would have thought that people would be asking their bartender to fix them a Pomtini? he said. I ask him about his delivery of servicespruning, pesticides, herbicides, fertilizer, waterthat can be calibrated and timed to enable the smallest unit to achieve maximum yield. It alleged that Vidovich broke state law by not doing an environmental review of the project. My grandmother said it was his leftist politics that ate up that vineyard and the ones that followed. This is one of the ways the Nut King and the Pomegranate Queen are defying the California drought. Dun & Bradstreet collects private company financials for more than 23 . He only needed to find groundwater from another basin to replace the state aqueduct water he had just sold. Why not we start with an extended interview or two? I offered. The Sureos gang has tagged the front entrance but otherwise has left the inside unmarked. It comes out like pee, says her 11-year-old daughter. Everything but the turkey had come from his orchards. Central Californias family raisin farms are drying up, Commercial bees, the unsung heroes of the nut business, From California to the Midwest, examining the perils of industrial farming and the risk to food, Drought has California farms destroying crops, rather than pay for water, Californias drought is all but over, but some wells are still dry, The color of the year has a political past, A California farm battles drought: Were out here trying to survive, Your donation today powers the independent journalism that you rely on, Seasonal foreign workers fill critical landscaping jobs, enabled by easier access to visas. Already mechanization is changing, you know, the labor situation. Iranian pistachios show up in Tel Aviv as nuts from Turkey. It also means giving back.. Many are here without documents, after all. On a chilly morning in January, the day the pipe was to cross under the canal, Boswells crew arrived to block construction with trucks, trailers, excavators, a motor grader and a bulldozer with the diamond B logo, according to the lawsuit. The space for a familys secrets is only a few feet. They were married only a short time when Manuel decided to cross the border almost 20 years ago. The Sotos made a name for themselves in Lost Hills by taking their taco trucks into the agricultural fields. All Access Digital offer for just 99 cents! When nature bites down hard, and the government flow gets reduced to a trickle, growers in Kern turn on their pumps and reach deeper into the earth. The Kings is bone-dry as usual. I sit in my car and wait in the parking lot. The nuts are kept there a few more daysany longer and the ants will attack themto complete their drying. They married in 1972, and he sold the alarm company for $100 million. Now, it seems, high-profile developer John Vidovich has assumed the role of financier. He had no papers, like so many others, just an image of what this side of the border looked like. He turns out to be a kindly religious man whose short hair is dyed the black of shoe polish. Marketplace host Amy Scott spoke with Mark Arax, who wrote an articlein The California Sunday Magazine about the Wonderful Companys farming business and issues of sustainability in the Central Valley. She had recently divorced and wasnt about to settle for a life in Culver City. Just get started became one of his guiding principles. Its California., Sure. This is Twisselman. A cross of Jesus hangs from the bedpost. The hillocks that existed back in Yokut Indian days were flattened by a hunk of metal called the Fresno Scraper. The bloodless ones stay away. I get it. When he materializes onstage, he is wearing narrow black jeans, a black mock turtleneck, and a dark jacket. Whether its Fresno or Kings or Tulare or Kern counties, hes grabbing land where the groundwater is plenty or a river runs through it or the aqueduct spills its north-to-south flow. And the Resnicks run the place, thats where this story gets conflicted and very complicated because in the last five to eight years they have committed millions and millions of dollars to making this place better educating the children, helping the workers deal with obesity and things like that. No bee can penetrate the shield, and his mandarins remain seedless. It is one more way to extend the brand. At the core, though, the Resnicks were still moved by the duty of social justice, not just as traditional liberals but as secular Jews. Legal bills for this and other Boswell-related disputes are costing hundreds of thousands of dollars, he said. They do that because they love it., A POM craze followed. Bernard, hard to believe, is driving straight toward the aqueduct. He doesnt know about the pipeline. So why hasnt this place gone to tumbleweeds? Since international sanctions were lifted five years earlier, Iran has been crowding the market with its more buttery-tasting pistachios. Water seems to be disappearing, said Verboon. He worked as a gardener in Los Angeles and then heard about the almond trees on the other side of the mountain where the living was so much cheaper. Amy Scott: Theres a stunning aerial photo in the magazine that shows these green green trees surrounded basically by dust. I did not name the town, Lynda says. The river is nothing if not fickle. Billionaire comes to the rescue of billionaire., But those two guys hate each other., Not anymore. He was tough on the outside. Too many pistachios. Mathews: Should climate projects benefit communities they impact? Valuable research and technology reports. She gestures to the young students in the front row, the ones enrolled in the ag-prep classes, and asks them to stand up and take a bow. Fussing with one input or another, he can produce 3,500 pounds of nuts an acre. Even so, Resnick says, he learned a lesson from the 2004 recall of 13 million pounds of the companys salmonella-tainted almonds: Dont fight the FDA. To fix the subsidence, and keep the town dry in the next flood, residents and the state prison are having to pay $10 million in extra taxes. Altogether, Resnick has purchased 300,000 acre-feet of water from farmers and water districtsat a cost of $200 millionto cover his shortfall during the drought. Typically, each pound sells wholesale for $3.75. It takes a life every six seconds. He replenished it by shipping water from his property in Tulare County, 25 miles away, infuriating locals there. But for every good-sized fruit, theres a bunch that never sized up. Resnick is giving him one of his looks. A worker can still order a hamburger, but its half the size of the old hamburger and costs $6twice what the wild salmon served with creamed leeks and raw asparagus salad costs. Growers a tenth the size of Resnick flee the dust in their Ferraris to their second houses in Carmel. No rain in five years. Get a D&B Hoovers Free Trial. She deftly places her body between him and me. The relatives try not to press them, but the arrangement still feels like a form of indentured servitude. If youre messing with peoples lives and it doesnt work, thats serious. It had to work. Tens of millions of dollars spent on philanthropy in Lost Hills wasnt just good for the people, she discovered. Comprehensive company profiles. Hes using it to irrigate his almonds and pistachios in Lost Hills. From a safe, Ellsberg had lifted the Pentagon Papers, the secret history of how successive presidents lied to the public to cover up the failings of the Vietnam War. Boswell has met its match. Already, the high school is filled with hundreds of students bused in from farmworker towns that are among the poorest communities in the West. He did this first in the name of wheat and then beef, milk, raisins, cotton, and nuts. So now theyre doing everything they can to frustrate my ability to utilize the property, said Vidovich. In Vidovich, J.G. It would return as tule fog to remind the white man of his theft. In the trailer next door, Lupes cousin Margarita lives with her husband, Selfo, and their three young children. The bells in the churches pealed, and out came the villagers with their scythes and axes, believing they had found the reason for their poverty. Frankly, Im having too much fun to think about retiring., Even if he were inclined to wind down, he had no successor in mind. That was eight or nine years ago. The more water he got, the more crops he planted, and the more crops he planted, the more water he needed to plant more crops, and on and on. Resnick himself had sold 5,000 acre-feet to a proposed new town in the farm fields of Madera. But the players are different. But if you want to be in agriculture, you need to go to the Central Valley, said Vidovich. So do the Israelis, who go to the trouble of repackaging the nuts so it doesnt appear that theyre consuming the product of an enemy. Join Facebook to connect with John Vidovich and others you may know. And then they pump more groundwater. Now they have to keep that up, right? As you know, our philosophy at Wonderful is doing well by doing good. The Boswell company, their attorneys and Tulare Lake Canal Company president Mark Unruh did not respond to repeated requests for comment. One mile, two miles, three miles, fourit keeps going until it reaches another county and back to one of the main canals in the Dudley Ridge Water District. From the east side of Tulare County to the west side of Fresno County, theyre planting more nuts and Halos. His trees were drinking from the Central Valley Project and the State Water Project, from rivers and irrigation canals and the water bank. How much was plunder? But his egotheres no controlling that., Resnick had heard it all before. His accountant suggested he buy apartments. Maybe not since the wheat barons has the income disparity between farmer and farmworker been greater. Its also in the real estate business, developing and marketing master planned communities and business parks. He did little, if any, catting around. What is indisputable is that over the past 20-plus years, Vidovich has quietly amassed more than 100,000 acres in the Central Valley, gaining footholds on numerous water boards, which has given him control over vast amounts of groundwater the valley's lifeblood. This is a big crop, the field man tells me. But this can lead to conflict and distrust. Like the waters of the lake, the indent of the Resnicks will recede from the land, too. Thats changing. Where he takes the water is none of my business., Hes taking it into his orchards in Kern. He and Lynda decided in 1984 to buy the Franklin Mint, the maker of commemorative coins and other kitsch, for $167.5 million. He was a big drinker, a big liver who loved the fast life. My dust cloud tells him Im getting close. The oldest of five children, he came from Mexico when he was 18. This sale made headlines because it was engineered by one farmeran outsider from the cityfor his benefit only. Because the more you invested in your employees and their communities, the more productive they became. My grandfather, a survivor of the Armenian genocide, traveled 7,000 miles by ship and train in 1920 to find out if his uncles exhortationThe grapes here are the size of jade eggswas true. Being healthy is a choice. Future of state housing is at stake in UC ruling, governor says, Center for Watershed Sciences at UC Davis, erved as Santa Clara County Planning Commissioner, Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information. John, his oldest son, had served in the military as an intelligence officer and graduated from Santa Clara law school. Age : 59. Lets meet again in two weeks, he said. Pablo prunes and irrigates the almond and pistachio trees and applies the chemicals that cannot be applied by helicopter. For half my life, I never stopped to wonder: How much was magic? He was headed to the fields at the same time that another farmworker, drunk on beer, was coming home from the fields. Jim Wilson of J & D Wilson & Sons Dairy says two of his cattle died and $80,000 worth of fencing was damaged after a Boswell Co. helicopter buzzed his farm that he leases from John Vidovich, in . John Vidovich, the current patriarch of the family business, and his wife Lydia live in an $11.4 million Los Altos Hills home. One of the most dramatic alterations of the earths surface in human history took place here. This is gamblers ground unlike any other in California, and as I drive from hill to dale, examining each orchard, my head spins.
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